Tawang Himalayas –Dalai Lama’s Route to Freedom

The renowned American philosopher Ralph Waldo Emerson had once observed – “Never lose an opportunity of seeing anything beautiful, for beauty is God's handwriting” and Tawang indeed is so! despite all the Indo-China military tensions, army vehicles buzzing by and soldiers in battle-ready mode at every vantage locale, the mesmerising Tawang Himalayas, tucked away in India’s extreme North Eastern state of Arunachsl Prafesh is simply unputdownable.

Today, residing in metropolitan India, a feeling of Deja Vu engulfs me! The fact that I too was once a resident of Tawang Himalayas (1977-78); and those memories still flashback – wearing the Monpa “Alipudun” jacket to school, encountering zig zag mountain roads - tied tightly on the back of and of our trusted Monpa Awu (Elder Brother), who would tske care of me and my younger brother!

I still vividly remember those trips to the Tawang monastery during the festival of Torgya and literally crying at the sight of monks in demon masks dancing and having a whale of a time during snowfalls!

Influence of Buddhism:

Let me tell you, Buddhism is a way of life in Tawang and the indegenous Monpa’s adore His Holiness The Dalai Lama – the spiritual ambassador of the world. In fact, the 6th Dalai Lama Tsangyang Gyatso was born in Tawang, Urgelling Monastery to be precise on 1st March, 1683. His father Lama Tashi Tenzin is believed to be a descendant of the Pema Lingpa and his mother Tsewang Lhamo, was a Monpa woman hailing from the royal family of Bekhar.

Dalai Lama’s Connect with Tawang:

The outside world is largely unaware of the fact that His Holiness The Dalai Lama escaped the wrath of the Chinese during that infamous 1959 Tibetan rebellion with the logistical support of CIA’s Special Activities Division and his first step on Indian territory was this minuscule Himalayan town of Tawang!

Dalai Lama has a sentimental attachment with Tawang and in his 2017 visit to Tawang he was quoted as saying – “Every time I visit these areas, the Tawang area, is very emotional for me, I see the place where I had enjoyed freedom for the first time”.

Meeting Dalai Lama’s Escort:

As a one time resident of Tawang, my only regret is not being able to have an audience with His Holiness The Dalai Lama. However, I was fortunate enough to have met Naren Chandra Das – the Assam Rifles Havildar who was deputed to receive and escort The Dalai Lama on 31st March, as His Holiness was compelled to escape from his Tibetan abode - Potala Palace, fearing execution from China’s PLA.

Call it destiny or whatever, my parents put in a Christian Missionary school in the remote Assamese town of Tezpur, due to to the non availibility of proper schools in Tawang!

Evey vacations, my dad would come to fetch me home and he would carry with him the high quality “Joha” Rice, renowned for its rich aroma for the Havildar from Assam Rifles – Late Naren Chandra Das, who was then a resident of Lokra neighbourhood, located in close proximity. By the way, in India’s North Eastern state of Assam, “Joha” rice is symbolic of love, affection and gratefulness.

Most of the time conversations revolved around that epic escape of Dalai Lama and how they overcame harsh weather, difficult mountainous terrain and the constant fear of a Chinese onslaught.

Needless to say, in faraway metropolis of Kolkata, where we now reside, my father was inconsolable when we got the news of the passing away of Havildar Naren Das on 27th Dec, 2021,

Tawang Monastery:

This place is heavenly – 10,000 feet above sea level, stunning snow-clad Himalayan vistas, gorgeous tribes blessed with century’s old indigenous culture and one of the best places to practice, inculcate and immerse yourself into Buddhism.