
Kumaon, Kriya Yoga & Karma
India's Uttarakhand, popularly referred to as “Devbhumi” or the abode of Gods is indeed at the forefront, positioning itself as “New India’s” ultimate Wellness Tourism hotspot. And, the Kumaon region in particular is beautifully unravelling both it's geographical as well as its ancient spiritual treasures to today's jaded traveller.
Reading time: 5 minutes
Apart from jaw dropping snow clad Himalayan peaks like Nanda Devi, Chaukhamba, Panchachuli, Kamet….that dazzle, as if a beauty pageant is on; Kumaon is blessed with innumerable ancient caves, mountain hideaways and spiritual centres, which have none of the frills associated with commercial tourism. These spiritual nerve centres have remained graciously hidden from the crass commercial touristic purviews of our contemporary travel trends.
Not many are aware that the Kriya Yoga Capital of the world is located in Kumaon’s Dunagiri region, where Mahaavatar Babaji - an ageless Yogi, who has transcended the physical limitations of the “body-mind” setup and is believed to have been in existence ever since the dawn of the universe, has his holy cave beautifully tucked away in this part of the Himalayas.
Kriya Yoga:
By the way, Kriya Yoga - an ancient meditative practice, was first highlighted to the world by Paramahansa Yogananda through his immensely popular book - "Autobiography of a Yogi," wherein he introduced to the world the existence of the ageless Yogi - Mahaavatar Babaji.
As a spiritual practitioner, I feel fortunate to be residing in Kalyani in the District of Nadia, which is in close proximity to Ghurni - the birthplace of Lahiri Mahashaya ( Shyama Charan Lahiri) who was the foremost disciple of the revered Mahaavatar Babaji. It was in Dunagiri cave of Kumaon Himalayas where Mahaavatar Babaji first initiated Lahiri Mahasaya, taught him the nuances of Kriya Yoga and bestowed on him the responsibility of spreading the fragrance of Yoga to the world.
No wonder, I cherished this intense desire to visit Dunagiri cave and have a first hand experience of the Yogic vibes.
The Divine Invitation:
A couple of month's back, on the invitation of my Kumaoni friend from Almora - Chandan Singh Koranga, I finally made up my mind to visit Kumaon and spend time at Dunagiri, just to feel the divine presence of great souls like Mahavatar Babaji, Lahiri Mahashaya and other Kriya Yogis who are silently practicing this ancient system of Yoga for the emancipation of this world and thereby creating a new world order based on the tenants of Kriya Yoga.
Reaching Kumaon:
Chandan's “Pahadi Kumaon” hospitality touched my heart. I stayed in his Wood Villas cottages, 20 Kms. away from Almora at an elevation of 1424 m above sea level, which was a perfect Himalayan hideout from where I could just bask in the surreal sights of the distant snow clad Himalayan peaks, the clouds drifting by and colourful packs of Himalayan avian species flying in unison, thereby creating an extraordinary symphony that only the Himalayas can offer!
Wooden cottages offer an aesthetic charm which is timeless. They radiate harmony and are remarkably sustainable. The architectural finesse too was every bit European and wholly constructed out of wood, a rarity in the Indian context.
Kasar Devi Hill - India's Van Allen Belt:
Before embarking on our trip to Dunagiri, Chandan took me to Kasar Devi Hill - one of the world’s rarest places and a NASA certified Van Allen Belt. This Hill is synonymous with very high levels of Geomagnetic rays that aids both in revitalising and rejuvenating the body-mind-soul system, in a perfect cosmic symphony that benefits whosoever takes the plunge of spending time in contemplation of the Divine.
After offering Puja to Mata Kasar Devi, regarded as one of Devi Durga’s form – Devi Kattayini, I ventured towards the “Akhand Jyoti” or The Eternal Flame where there is an exclusive “Havan Kund” and I could see the wooden logs burning. The aroma of the smoke emanating from the “Kund” felt divine and purifying. According to the temple’s priest, there is a belief that the ash of the “ Havan Kund” has magical properties in curing people who suffer from mental illness.
Holistic & Immersive Travel in Kumaon Himalayas.
Onward to Dunagiri:
After an early morning breakfast, we commenced our journey by road to Dunagiri - an 85 Kms. drive through mountain roads from Almora that can be covered in 4.5 hours.
After refreshing ourselves at a roadside restaurant, we walked along the zigzag mountain path leading towards Mahavatar Babaji's Cave, tucked away on the Pandukholi Mountain.
And, each step I took, the realisation of a long cherished spiritual desire to come on a pilgrimage to Dunagiri and bask in the spiritual vibes of this holy cave, where countless Yogis from ancient times found spiritual fulfilment made me feel truly enamoured.
Inside the Cave - A Date with Divinity:
Once inside, I and Chandan chose a spot where we could incline our backs to the cave wall for support. We meditated for an hour or so and it was twilight by the time we came out; the red molten ball dipping across the snowy Himalayan peaks made for a truly surreal setting - an elixir I will relish for the rest of my life on Planet Earth.
Due to time constraints, we couldn't stay overnight at the neighbourhood Dunagiri Retreat, which I was told, was conceived of by a former World Bank executive - Piyush Kumar, who felt the perennial need of a Retreat Centre at Dunagiri that would cater to the needs of of Kriya Yoga practitioners who faced incredible hardships to come this far.
This one-of-a-kind Yoga Retreat embodies the ethos of sustainability. Be it preserving the fragile Himalayan eco-system of Dunagiri or providing sustainable livelihoods to Kumaoni locals, the Retreat sets a stellar example of carbon neutral tourism in the Himalayas.
Piyush oversees the day to day operations of the Retreat and being a widely travelled man, he sets very high standards on eco-tourism practices. In his own words - “Promoting dignified, sustainable livelihoods, enhancing local education, providing healthcare, and exploring harmonious coexistence with nature has been our focus. We aim to show how every element, from stones to wildlife, can joyously coexist”.
We could see from a distance a group of visitors absorbed in a meditative trance inside the spacious Yoga Hall. as well as a serene Pyramid Meditation Hall. No wonder that the Retreat has earned worldwide popularity for its amazing array of yoga sessions, workshops, and meditation congregations.
Wrapping Up:
Having tasted the spiritual nectar of Mahavatar Babaji's Cave and fulfilling my desire to connect with Lahiri Mahasaya's lineage, I will be visiting Dunagiri again, early next year, for an extended stay at Dunagiri and take part in a transformative and Inner Healing workshops.
For now, I will take away with me the sheer sense of vastness ! Mesmerising views of the Himalayas and the ever changing skyline; one moment bright and sunny and another moment fleeting balls of white clouds dancing a celestial dance at Dunagiri.
Traveller's Fact File:
Reaching There:
By Road:
The drive from Delhi to Dunagiri takes about 10-11 hours, covering approximately 400 km.
Route:
Take NH-24 out of Delhi, drive through Ghaziabad, Hapur, Garhmukteshwar, Moradabad, Rampur to Bilaspur, Rudrapur, Haldwani and Kathgodam, then take the scenic hill journey through Bhimtal, Bhowali, Ranikhet, Dwarahat to Dunagiri.
By Rail:
Kathgodam is the nearest railway station, well-connected to Delhi. From Kathgodam, take a taxi, share taxi, or bus from Kathgodam to Dunagiri.
By Air:
Nearest airport is Pantnagar. There are direct flights from Delhi to Pantnagar (PGH). Taxis are available from Pantnagar to Dunagiri.